Throwback to Two Weeks in October

The southern hemisphere storm and swell track was comatose throughout much of August and September 2017.  The East Coast of the USA saw weeks of pumping, epic tropical swell, while California and Hawaii watched the live cams and highlights jealously. Swell Affective Disorder (SAD) was deep-rooted. Waveriders walked around slouched over, staring longing at the horizon, hoping for some kind of Ocean energy.

The first pulse after a long doldrum.

Then everything changed. Neptune flipped a switch and provided two weeks of excellent surf at the end of October. A series of solid southern hemisphere swells comboed with fun NW windswell, good tides and perfect local conditions to produce weeks of fun.

Waveriders quickly became sore, rashed, sandy and thoroughly womped. But most of us would gladly trade a couple months of weak swell for a couple weeks of solid swell and excellent conditions. We chased it hard. Some didn’t need anymore after the first week but sucked the marrow out of it. Everyday, 2-3 times a day. Before first light and after last light. 

Conditions remained good from dawn til dusk.
Combo swells and bending waves for days.

Never ever tire of this.
Enough for everyone.
Again and Again and Again

Ode to Autumn

Autumnal Equinox.
The season of the harvest.
Reap the benefits of multiple swell sources.
Harvest the tubes from the North and the South and the Tropics.

The South Pacific slows down, the North Pacific speeds up.
The Tropics still vibrate with energy.
Combo swells are some of the best swells.

Record breaking water temps.
Forgot what neoprene feels like.
Boardshorts worn ragged.
Light winds for most of the day.
High pressure, glassy conditions.
Moon sessions hooting with the boys.

Fire-free Santa Ana events. 
Kids back to school.
Parking and traffic loosen up.
Hot days, muggy nights.
But eventually the nights cool.
Because of the gray and gloom…
SoCal’s summer doesn’t start until fall.

The only real detriment to Autumn:
Darkness creeps earlier.
Sense it every night.
The light changes.

Winter is coming.
El Nino hype. El Nino anticipation.
Stomach full of butterflies.
Will it be 200ft+ all winter long?
Nah, but hopefully solid.
Don’t fret that yet…
Enjoy the autumn. SoCal Summer.