Sports Illustrated- Feb. 22, 1971

*This article is reprinted from Sports Illustrated- February 22, 1971Dr Delano MeriwetherFebruary 22, 1971X 15595credit: Sheedy & Long - contract SI Vault

According to longtime Wedge rider, Ron Romanosky, Sports Illustrated was unsuccessfully sued for slander by one of the Wedge bodysurfers in the article. Ron says, “Curry Kirkpatrick, SI staff writer, wrote this in a tongue-in-cheek manner, thinking all along that those of whom he wrote were just another bunch of unschooled surfing nitwits who’d had their brains scrambled by drugs and Wedge wipeouts. What he didn’t take into account was what he wrote about Mike Virgil was slanderous (to Mike). Mike sued.”

*The images did not appear in the original article, they were added by Swell Lines Magazine.

The Closest Thing To Being Born

Body surfers are prone to hyperbole, but anyone who rides the waves at the Wedge in Newport Beach, Calif knows whereof he speaks. With breakers up to 22 feet, it’s the hairiest trip going—unless you count Brutal

By Curry Kirkpatrick

 …From a boy
I wantoned with thy breakers—they to me
Were a delight; and if the freshening sea
Made them a terror—’twas a pleasing fear.
—George Gordon, Lord Byron

Body surfers are not all drunken, longhaired, pothead jerks.
—Kevin Egan

Bitchinoutasightunrealrighteouswave.
—Definition overheard at the Wedge

As any Wedge man can verify, the sport of body surfing is full of people who at one time or another have demonstrated a potential for becoming either poets or jerks or both. Body surfing—or the art of riding a wave without benefit of a board or raft—is also full of people who don’t know what they are doing. Indeed, there may be no other physical activity, including golf, in which so many are so bad, be they latent poets or jerks—or both.

Starky Drop
Modern Wedge: Sean Starky

Most body surfers live in California, which is the cradle of the sport—as well as of Big Boys and Orange Juliuses—in the U.S. In the late ’20s and early ’30s when body surfing caught on at the Long Beach and Balboa piers, husky watermen went “straight off” or “over the falls” in a direct line to the beach. The widespread use of fins by the Navy’s underwater demolition teams during World War II brought about a dramatic change, however. After the war the best body surfers began using fins, which enabled them to swim faster and to catch more waves. As a result, they began to ride on the shoulders of waves just in front of the breaking portion, where board surfers rode, and they learned to cut right and left. More radical innovations followed. Where formerly the only way to plane was on the stomach, with arms down to the side, body surfers now experimented with their sides or backs tucked into the wave and their arms out in front or behind or at 90° angles. Arms and hands became stabilizing rudders, body surfers rode parallel to the beach instead of head on into it, and tricks such as spinners, barrel rolls, cutbacks, roller coasters and Iron Crosses proliferated.

Today the sport is most expertly practiced at places like Makapuu on Oahu and on those marvelously named beaches that fill the dreams of all little Southern Californians: Zuma, near Malibu; the Redondo breakwater; the Huntington Beach Pier; Brooks Street in Laguna Beach; Trafalgar Street in San Clemente; and Windansea and Boomer Beach in La Jolla. This is not to mention the undisputed, full-out, righteous, unrealoutasightleadstud and, of course, bitchin’ king of body-surfing spots, the Wedge at Newport Beach.

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Wedge and her Jetty

Even if body surfing were not the purest form of riding waves, the most fundamental test of man against ocean, the hairiest water activity going and, as someone once said, “the closest thing to the great trauma of being born”—all of which it probably is—the Wedge would be one of nature’s finest showcases.

Originally formed where the west jetty of Newport Harbor meets the beach at the tip of Balboa peninsula, the Wedge is located just a few breakers away from what was once the finest surfing spot (both board and body) in California. This was at Corona del Mar, where Duke Kahanamoku played hooky from the movie sets in Hollywood because it reminded him of Waikiki. In the mid-’30s, however, to protect its harbor, the city of Newport Beach added 100 yards of rock to the end of the concrete east jetty so that it extended over 400 yards into the ocean. This finished Corona del Mar, on the east side of Newport Bay, as a surfing mecca. But on the west side of the west jetty the water was doing wondrous things, which still occur today. South swells formed by tropical storms, budding hurricanes and the dreaded chubascos of Mexico press toward shore with tremendous force. As each wave strikes the end of the jetty, the force of water pushing against the rocky outcrop-pings along its length builds up a side wave that breaks at a 45° angle to the jetty. The following south swell catches the side wave created by the preceding wave, and they join, forming a great peak, or wedge. This giant double wave gives the Wedge its name.

Vector in the Lip
Air Drop

To an eye innocent in matters of wave size, any Wedge day looks dangerous, even those when Wedge men don’t bother to put on their fins because the surf is too small. Five-foot waves, for instance, sometimes look like 15-footers to novices. One experienced body surfer claims to have caught a memorable 22-foot wave. Though the size of breakers varies drastically from year to year, depending on the storms to the south, on a good day the Wedge generally has waves averaging 10 feet. Veteran Wedge men judge the size of the breakers by how they correspond to the power poles on top of the jetty. “They’re breaking eight poles out” means a big day. “Four poles” is average, and “two poles” is a bummer.

Just as it offers the most interesting and challenging rides in body surfing, the Wedge also provides the most dangerous. Only Hawaii’s Banzai Pipeline approaches it as a water hazard, but the Pipeline’s reputation is largely based on the fact that the surf breaks on jagged coral.

The Wedge has always been a source of concern to local safety officials, primarily because of the dangers that await the hundreds of young and unaccomplished surfers who visit Newport every summer. Over the past few years, in fact, the Wedge has been the scene of innumerable injuries and several deaths, but though most of Newport’s surfing beaches are patrolled by lifeguards, only lip service is paid to the Wedge. This is because it is almost impossible for a lifeguard to swim out through the conflicting currents to help a man in trouble. Danger signs are posted everywhere, but they don’t stop body-surfing tourists, who come from all over the world to test their skill or their courage or something. The city of Newport Beach constantly is being sued for damages due to surfing accidents, but the city always wins. “The warning signs are up, and everybody knows about it,” says Justice Robert Gardner of the State of California Court of Appeal. “The reputation of the Wedge prevails every time. A citizens committee tried to close the Wedge in 1963, but we made an impassioned plea for a man’s right to break his neck if he wanted to.”

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Morning

Gardner, an avid body surfer even now at 59, has written what is believed to be the only book devoted entirely to the sport. It is, as yet, unpublished. He seldom surfs at the Wedge anymore, but he is respectful of it and close to maniacal in his protective attitude toward the sport. “There are only about 500 people in the whole world who know how to body-surf,” says Gardner. “There are maybe 25 who are good enough to surf the Wedge. That leaves 15 million flatlanders who go straight off all the time and usually fall on you while you’re cutting. Sometimes it looks like there are that many at the Wedge. They’re foolish. No, they’re idiots.” If asked, Gardner will explain that a “flatlander” is a person who does not know how to body-surf correctly. Normally this person will live inland, or “on the flats.” Of course, he could live on the ocean and not know how to body-surf. This would be enough to qualify him as a flatlander, but perhaps not enough to be a “turkey” or a “goon,” both of which denote incompetence. Turkeys and goons are often harassed at the Wedge by a little maneuver known as “head hopping,” which is nothing more, or less, than having one’s shoulders or head grabbed from behind and then having one’s whole self slammed, banged, slapped, shoved and pushed under the water. It is very difficult to catch a wave after being head-hopped.

“The Wedge is nothing but a great big screaming shore break,” says Gardner. “Nobody should be in there unless he knows what he’s doing. Body surfing is different from board surfing, particularly at the Wedge. What’s the difference? You get creamed every ride, that’s what. Every ride is a disaster. I’ve learned discretion. I ride only what’s civilized.”

Gardner also points out that there is a marked difference between board surfers, who are, it has been said, scruffy, unsociable characters with a tendency toward drunkenness and rowdy behavior, and body surfers, who possess only upstanding gentlemanly qualities. Because of these attributes and contradictory philosophies regarding the best way to ride a wave, the two groups have become mutual enemies.

“Board men are just a bunch of phony hangers-on,” Gardner contends. “They’ve improved 100-fold over the past eight years, but that’s because we got rid of all the hodads. There are no phonies in body surfing. There is no glory in carrying a pair of fins. It’s a basic, primitive thing. It’s just you and the ocean.

“Most of the body surfers I know are employed or going to school. There are never any complaints from beachfront owners about body surfers stealing or wrecking things or using bad language. But those board guys, oh, boy! They don’t like body surfers because we’re in their way. Well, the rule of the ocean is that a man coming in on a wave has the right of way, and it ought to be obeyed. I rode over a board-surfing guy at Brooks Street one time and flipped him good. I’ve dumped people who were purposely in my way. You hit them, you understand. I got right up on top of a board surfer recently. He was there deliberately. I hit him right in the middle of the back with my knees. He was out of the water the next time. He learned his lesson. You have to hit them to survive in the water. Why do board surfers try and force us out? There is no place in the body-surfing picture for maladjusted people.”

Don Redington, a former All-America swimmer at USC who now runs a real-estate-appraising company in Los Angeles, was one of the first men to popularize the Wedge. He says it used to be a normal progression for a waterman to body-surf before he moved on to board surfing. “Now most of them skip body surfing,” says Redington. “It’s because they’re bad swimmers. They don’t want to make the effort of swimming out to the wave when they can paddle out on a board. Board surfers regard us as low-class incompetents, but we were capable swimmers first. Board guys hunt for waves in mush and garbage. We’re much more selective. Some people claim I was the first to head-hop at the Wedge. Well, if I was, I’m not ashamed of it.”

Among the few who are accomplished in both board and body surfing is Mickey Muñoz, a surfboard shaper who once doubled for Sandra Dee in faraway action shots in a surfing epic of the ’50s. Muñoz, 33, credits himself, along with Joe Quigg and Carter Pyle (a former Stanford tackle), with rediscovering the Wedge. Quigg and Pyle have since moved to Hawaii, but Muñoz is still active in Dana Point, where he drives a Ford van containing many surfboards.

“The Wedge had been a body-surfing spot 15 and 20 years ago,” Muñoz says, “but then nobody surfed there anymore because it was too dangerous. We started riding it again about eight years ago, and we told people to come down and try it. The Wedge helped revolutionize body surfing. We had to develop a radical style just to survive. When we started we made only about 5% of the waves. When we were through we made 75%.

“The reason was that I brought back this new riding technique from Hawaii, where Buffalo Keaulana had broken away from the classic style and dropped his outside arm below his body to act as a hydrofoil. That’s what did it for me. Back when we were riding, the Wedge was considered pretty far-out stuff, something really neat. Now it’s a rite of manhood in Newport. The Wedge has always been very bitchin’, but the group there is pretty much divorced from the rest of the surfing world. They’re isolated. They’re too far out on the peninsula.”

While the current Wedge crowd—a fraternity of approximately 25 men between the ages of 19 and 32—will support the testimony that Quigg and Pyle were the true original Wedge men, while they will admit that Mickey Muñoz is one of the really creative body surfers of his time and while they will concede that what Muñoz says about the Wedge being a manhood rite and being definitely bitch-in’ is true, they will not accept him as a spokesman for body surfing or the Wedge. As a matter of fact, present-day Wedge men hate Mickey Muñoz.

“Mickey Muñoz’ brain is five sheets to the wind,” says Kevin Egan, a bartender at the Ancient Mariner in Newport and an up-and-out-at-7-in-the-morning regular at the Wedge. “He’s overrated. He’s blown all out of proportion. He came up to the Wedge one day, saw it and liked it, and the next time he brought a whole camera crew, writers and the whole bit, to do a story on himself at the Wedge for Surfer magazine. Then he left and never came back. He takes a camera crew with him wherever he goes. All the stories in the surfing magazines talk about Muñoz riding the Wedge, but it never happens. He’s never here. We all resent it.”

“Muñoz hasn’t been at the Wedge in six years, except maybe to take pictures of himself,” says Ron Romanosky, another regular. “He’s a turkey. A Mexican turkey. And a goon besides.”

“If Muñoz popularized the Wedge, I know a lot of guys who would like to beat up on him,” says a third Wedge man. “Get him up here right now and we’ll all head-hop him.”

Modern Crew
Modern Crew

Although their life-style seems tame by the surfing standards of yesteryear, some of the Wedge men will, on occasion, slip into those erratic tendencies that people “on the flats” have come to believe are characteristic of the species. Among those who can be found most any morning between 7 and 11 sitting on the sand several paces from an ancient spit upon which is scrawled WEDGE, WE LOVE YOU are: Egan, a transplanted Easterner who is murder on the side wave but gets sick in moving cars; Romanosky, a good-looking Vietnam veteran who angers easily and is considered the only blond Polish knee-board rider in existence as well as the best knee-board rider period; Bill Sinner, a salesman for Carnation milk products who moved from Whittier to the Newport area just to be near the Wedge and who now and then hands out chocolate-fudge Instant Breakfasts as a dole to his compatriots; Pat Carden, a former MP in Korea who fires off blasts on his Acme Thunderer whistle to scare turkeys and goons out of the water; Ralph (Redbeard) Polston, 6’5″, 250 pounds, who stands on, not in, public bars a lot and ripples the muscles in his usually uncovered stomach; Fast Eddie Nastri, who got his name by unsuccessfully hustling pool players superior to himself and “always goes right” at the Wedge; and Nick Hudson, an unemployed ski-lift operator who collects food stamps because there are no ski lifts in Newport Beach and who goes to his Coast Guard Reserve meetings with his arm in a homemade sling in order to “provoke hassles.”

Perhaps the experiences of Kevin Egan serve best to illustrate to what extremes a passion for the Wedge will take a man. While body surfing at the Wedge, Egan has pulled every muscle in his lower back, slipped two discs, pinched several nerves, broken his hand, been knocked unconscious twice, opened up countless parts of his body for stitching, fractured his spine and marked and scarred his feet to a point where they now look like twin topography maps of the Sierra Mad-re. Egan passed out two years ago on Christmas Day from the constant pain caused by some of these injuries. Still he comes to body-surf.

“I could have gone to Notre Dame. I could have done what my parents wanted,” Egan says. “My brother is a doctor, and he was going to pay my way through school. He was against Notre Dame. He offered me two weeks in Hawaii if I stayed home and went to college here. I stayed home and graduated from Cal State Fullerton, but I never got my trip. I got gypped. But I don’t hold any grudges. It’s only cost me $40 for X rays the two times I tried to kill myself on waves.

“This is my life now,” says Egan. “I could have signed on as a steward on a boat, gone all over the world, but I’m not sorry. I just want to ride waves. Before I was married I never got in before 4 in the morning. It was lucky I was away from home. Each day I came back to the apartment there would be a party going on whether I knew about it or not. I mean, my mother doesn’t understand drinking beer out of surfing fins. I think people know what the Wedge is now. They respect us for the skill and the guts it takes to ride it. Of course, my mother still can’t understand the water syndrome. She says anyone who stays in the water as much as I do has to be psychologically upset.”

Egan admits that Wedge men can be pretty tough on turkeys, goons—and the Newport Beach Body Surfing Association. “It’s a joke,” Egan says. “Nobody who lives anywhere in Newport is in it. Hardly any of them come to the Wedge, because they can’t ride it. They give us bad names. They’re the grubby ones. They’re mostly younger guys. They asked me to join a few years ago. I’m 24. I told them I was too old for clubs. Sometimes if they do come to the Wedge we’ll head-hop them. I say, ‘Get the hell out of here, you with your water-polo hats on.’ They wear water-polo hats. We can be a nasty group, I’ll say.”

“The Wedge guys are hogs,” says a young surfer down the beach at 19th Street. “They hog every wave for themselves. I saw one of those guys—a Wedge hog—down at a beach in San Diego. They have all these old guys down there. Well, not really that old. But guys who think slow and surf straight off. You know, over the falls. Guys about 35. Anyway, this Wedge guy kept head-hopping these old guys and stealing all the waves. One old man said, ‘You from the Wedge? One of those hard riders?’ He said ‘Wedge? Wedge? No, where’s that?’ He was laughing and laughing. Then he head-hopped the guy again. He was a miserable Wedge hog.”

Egan’s wife Kathy, a striking blonde who works for Signal Oil and Gas Co. in Huntington Beach, takes her husband to task for his treatment of less proficient body surfers. “You ought to be more thoughtful,” she told him recently. “You don’t even care about turkeys who are yelling for help until the very last moment. You try to teach them a lesson by scaring them to death. I’ve heard one of your friends shouting to a turkey in trouble, ‘Swim for the rocks. The rocks!’ You know that’s the worst place to go. The turkey could be killed.”

“You didn’t hear that,” said Egan. “You just thought you did. Most people who yell for help don’t need it. I’ll be swimming 30 yards from some turkey and he’ll be yelling for help while he’s standing up. Standing up! All he has to do is walk into shore, and he wants me to come help him. But you just ask the lifeguards how many turkeys we pull out of the Wedge every summer.”

“Oh, how many do you?”

“Gee, Kath, how should I know? Plenty.”

“Well I did, too, hear somebody tell a turkey to go to the rocks,” said Kathy. “You’re too hard on those goons.”

“This is no place for beginners,” says Egan. “The lifeguards couldn’t do anything even if they were around. I once saw five guards trying to get to a guy in trouble on the rocks. They never reached him. I don’t think they ever found the body. A lot of bodies disappear here and wash up somewhere else. They’re transients who should have stayed away in the first place. But we don’t want lifeguards. The Wedge is crowded enough with tourists. If people see the place is patrolled they’ll think it’s safe. We want to limit the Wedge to just those guys who know how to ride it.”

Solid Wedge
Solid Wedge

Fred Simpson, a regional sales manager for the video products division of Craig Corp. who at 32 is considered The Old Man of the Wedge, says: “For us there’s nothing to be afraid of. We’re not fearless. Everything we do is calculated. We go out there because we know how to handle it. I used to go up and down the beaches hunting for surf. No more. The Wedge is like the local tavern now. We’re not riding the Wedge to be killed. Of course, sometimes we get eaten. The thing is you have to draw a line somewhere. Everybody has a limit. Some people just haven’t found theirs yet. I can do three big ones and then I’m exhausted. I hurt here and here and here. I go home.”

One young Wedge regular was not so fortunate. In August of 1969 18-year-old Steve Meyer shot onto the inside peak of a relatively small wave and, though experienced, took a horrible pounding. He woke up in the hospital, his spinal cord severed, his body paralyzed practically from the neck down. On certain days friends carry Meyer down to the Wedge, where he can view from a wheelchair the booming surf that changed his life. Someone suggested to him that he place a sign on the back of his chair reading I AM A VICTIM OF THE WEDGE. Meyer says he is “thinking about it.”

Often disagreements develop between Wedge men as to the proper way to negotiate the breakers. Some regulars, like Romanosky, ride the Wedge on a knee board, which resembles a sawed-off surfboard and is about five feet long. (Regulation boards are considered too dangerous at the Wedge.) Others prefer a belly board. “I came down here for a long time just to body-surf,” says Bill Sinner. “Then last year I went to the belly board. I don’t know why. It’s faster, I guess. I won’t say it’s any better, but I just wanted to change.”

Normally knee-and belly-board riders are kindred spirits of body surfers inasmuch as both groups are what they themselves call “at one with the wave.” They also call this quality “reducing the medium.”

“Still, any board is a crutch,” said Egan the other day. “If you’re talking about total involvement, we’re already there. I don’t know about you, but if I had two good legs I’d want to walk on them. I wouldn’t use crutches.”

“A rotten parallel, sir,” said Bob Bell, another board rider who was formerly a cook at Th’ Dorymen Fish ‘n Chips in Newport. “An example that means nothing. The difference in body surfing and belly boarding is one of class and style. It is like a Porsche vs. a Volkswagen. If you want to go slow you drive a Volks, fast, a Porsche. A board is fast.”

“Are you saying belly boarding is more bitchin’ than body surfing?” said Egan.

“I’m not,” said Sinner. “I’m saying it’s different, faster.”

“I am,” said Bell. “I’m saying it’s more bitchin’.”

“Our sport is like the Greeks,” said Chris Klinke, another body man. “No artifacts do we need. Just man and nature. You miss the experience with the board. You miss the naturalism, the bare, basic humanity of the body alone against the water. That—my God—is no Volkswagen.”

“Klinke, you’re full of it,” said Sinner.

Almost every Wedge regular, be he body man or short-board aficionado, desires only one thing beyond catching the perfect wave and riding it into the jaws of eternity. And that is taking a picture of it. Photography is the chief avocation of Wedge men, and if, as some people have it, they are masochistic in nature, wishing to be whipped around and crushed on the sea floor, they are, by the same token, no less megalomaniac because they love to watch themselves doing it or being done in by it.

“It’s an ego thing, certainly,” says Nick Hudson. “But it’s also something to do when you’re not in the water. You can’t be out there in the Wedge all the time. And when you’re onshore and you see a big one you just want to die. So you do the next best thing—photograph it and the guys on it. It eases the pain. It’s bitchin’.”

“We want to express ourselves in our photography,” says Bell. “It’s probably an obsession, but it’s neat. Look at this equipment I have. Is it bitchin’? Look at these pictures. Can you see the expressions on the face? You can just count the hairs on the man’s face, that’s all.”

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Smile for the camera

With the advent of every big surf day cameras on tripods are lined up at the top of the sand berm ready to be snapped as rapidly as the waves give cause. Later the Wedge men may sell their pictures to surfing magazines or trade them among each other. On special nights in the summer they will get together for a mass showing of movies and slides. Egan himself has about $5,000 worth of camera equipment and hopes, someday, to make photography his profession. Together with Mike Fitzwater, a free-lance photographer, whose work includes publicity stills of “Mickey and Diane,” a local husband-and-wife singing team, and John Ramuno, who, when asked his profession, answers “retired,” Egan plans to publish the first body-surfing magazine. The three entrepreneurs have a name for the magazine—New Visions—a cover, a layout, “outasight” pictures and some money. But no publisher. “For our second issue we’re gonna have just the whole bitchin’ Wedge,” says Ramuno. “A page of Wedge waves. A page of Wedge guys. A page of Wedge chicks. A page of Wedge goons and turkeys. People will think it’s bitchin’. What an unreal, righteous issue!”

No photography or magazine text, however, can fully capture the tense anticipation followed by the near delirium that overcomes the crowd onshore when a huge set of waves approaches the Wedge. Roars and cheering accompany especially thrilling rides, and shouts of “Outside! Outside!” warn surfers in the water of impending crashers. “No, that’s wrong,” says Egan. “Goons caught on to that and started shouting ‘Outside!’ when there were only East Coast tinies outside. Now they’re always going ‘Outside!’ What do we do now? We signal. Hand signal.”

As is the case with most outasight places, great numbers of legends, some true, abound about the Wedge. Local men say its fame has spread throughout the globe. “These are the best body surfers in the world right here,” says Ralph Polston. “I began at Boomer Beach in La Jolla, and all of us down there used to think we were the greatest, and we’d come up and show the Wedge guys how to surf. Well, I did one day, and I got my tail cleaned. I ate surf for two days straight. I mean ate it. Hawaiians come over here all the time to beat the Wedge, and they end up eating it, too. I mean, eating it.

“In the oral test the Navy gives under-water demolition team candidates they try and scare you—’Well, men, we’re going out in some really heavy surf today’—stuff like that. One officer said to me, ‘I see you’re from Southern California. You surf?’ ‘Yes, sir,’ I told him. ‘The Wedge.’ He looked at me like he had seen a ghost. ‘You surfed the Wedge?’ he said. He was stoked for all time. I was in Hong Kong with an Australian a few years ago, and when he found out I was a Wedge man he literally jumped up in the air. He dragged me into a bar and wanted to know all about it. We got ripped that time. I mean ripped. Outa…bitchin’…sight!”

The days are gone when Wedge men used to fill their socks with sand and smash a turkey’s face bloody as he came over the falls. Or when a person like Nick Nick, a bona fide Hell’s Angel (now deceased), would show up in his denims and chain belt, sharpen the aluminum fin on his short board, say something like, “O.K., men, where are they?” and go out looking for goon bodies to accidentally cut open. Tales of more recent vintage and of considerably less macabre tone are given currency by Pat Carden, the self-appointed “keeper of the legends.” Carden says that on one memorable day he and another body surfer took off on a giant wave and flew so high they landed on the other side of the jetty. They got up, staggered around, saw they had ended up on the opposite side of the rocks from which they had started and wondered only if they had gone under or over the power-pole wires 40 feet above the surf. Observers assured them that Carden had gone over, his friend under. But it wasn’t until two years later when he overheard a goon describe the incident to his date and insist to same that he was a witness that Carden realized how history is made.

There is one Wedge happening that has come to be an issue of grave disagreement among those who insist they were there. It involves the appearance at the Wedge of two girls, Candy Calhoun and Nancy Corfman, on what is described in Justice Gardner’s book as “Big Tuesday” of August 1962, “when,” as Gardner has written, “both girls rode the huge surf then pounding at the Wedge. Candy and Nancy [who is the former Nancy Gardner and the justice’s daughter] had surfed but a few moments when, by unspoken agreement, most of the rest of the surfers left the water to watch the two girls. Estimates vary as to the size of the surf that day. Some say 18 feet, some say 20 feet. There was common agreement that Nancy took one free fall of at least 12 feet. Every camera at the beach tried to take the shot, but they were all fogged up with flying spray. But whatever the size of the surf, the girls rode the biggest the Wedge had to offer to the cheers of an all-male audience.”

“Judge Gardner is full of it,” says one Wedge man. “We didn’t get out of the water. We were teed off that the dumb chicks came over and got in our way. They’re O.K. surfers for girls, but nobody messes with a Wedge man’s waves. There might have been some clapping, but a lot of guys head-hopped those chicks.”

“There was no head hopping,” says another regular. “They were friends. We all knew them. But it wasn’t any ‘Big Tuesday,’ either. That’s stupid.”

“There sure was head hopping,” says the first Wedge man.

Girls are tolerated as spectators at the Wedge only if they are on the near side of 25, slim, blonde, tanned, wear a bikini and have a face like Candice Bergen. Girls as dates, however, are a different thing.

“It isn’t worth bringing a girl down here,” says Dave Brooks, a regular who went to Boston University for a year before coming back to be close to the Wedge. “You get a girl all the way down from L.A. and wipe yourself out screaming wildly and showing her your moves on the waves. Then you come into shore, and she says, ‘Did I see what?’ You want to smash her face in. ‘See what? See what?’ I once yelled. ‘I just killed myself for you, baby. Give me an ego trip, girl. See what? What were you doing, eating sand?’ “

Ron Romanosky, who has a habit of throwing his knee board onto the rocks and damaging it severely whenever he considers his performance less than perfect, recently brought his girl, Linda, to watch him at the Wedge. After he had ridden some big ones and realized Linda had not watched any of them he stormed over to Kevin Egan. “Linda’s been talking to your wife all day,” he said. “You know what they’re talking about? Shampoo. Shampoo! She didn’t even see my rides. I’ll kill her.” And away went Romanosky’s board onto the rocks, severely damaged again.

Relatively tame Brutal
Relatively tame Brutal

Only one area in all of body surfing has a more savage appearance than the Wedge, and that is its appendage 250 yards to the west. There, a huge curling wall of surf (“It’s so big you could drive a truck through it,” says one Wedge man) that smashes straight down into ankle-deep water is known, for obvious reasons, simply as Brutal. This mass of breakers, normally devoid of shape, is spoken of with reverence, almost as if Brutal were some terrible creature that awaits careless surfers and then systematically destroys them. Wedge men generally avoid Brutal, for it affords no escape route, such as diving underwater. As Kevin Egan says, “If you want to swallow a lot of water and sand and destroy your body, Brutal is ideal.”

Whatever awe the Wedge men may have left over from a couple of barbarous days at Brutal is reserved for, and directed at, one of their own—a short, long-haired 28-year-old named Mike Virgil. Due to past reputation and recent modus vivendi, Virgil, by design or not, has stamped himself as the archetype of the Wedge, or, rather, as the kind of man our society has always wanted the archetype of the Wedge to be. He is somewhat of a mystery to most of the regular personnel, partly because he is quiet and withdrawn, usually absent from their get-togethers, and partly because he is considered to be somewhat abnormal. Virgil endures as a source of wonderment to his fellows because of the unique way in which he rides the Wedge—a flat-out, straight-down free fall, sometimes sideways, sometimes backwards, sometimes even over Brutal, most of the time looking for all the world like what he wants to do more than anything else is hit the bottom in such a way that he will snap his neck in half.

“Virgil is out there to take on the biggest wave he can find,” says Egan. “He doesn’t care where it is or if he can ride it or not. It might break at Brutal. It might break over the jetty. No matter. Sometimes he rides, but most of the time he just free-falls. That’s his thing. He’s amazing. He’s a wild man. No, he’s an animal.”

Virgil will show up at the Wedge only on days of gargantuan waves. Anything less than 10 feet does not interest him. On these occasions he will sit on top of the berm alongside his pretty wife Cherilee, staring out at the Wedge but saying nothing. The other Wedge men watch him carefully to be sure not to miss any portion of the performance. “I didn’t know they did that,” says Virgil. “That’s pretty neat. That’s respect. I guess I do ride the biggest waves.” When he has, as he says, “timed” the waves and is ready to go, he will rise as if by divine guidance and enter the water. Swimming out through the crashing surf, Virgil will pass up waves that might cause night moaning in lesser men and wait for what he thinks will be the biggest peak. Then he will proceed to catch his wave and start the “ride,” first gliding through the water, then turning, kicking into a swim and falling on his side or his back, down, down, down, finally disappearing into the foam, where some spectators believe he will stay forever. Mike Virgil, however, always comes back up. “I may look like I’m being wiped out,” he says, “but I’m not. I have a green room that I duck into where there’s no turbulence. Only calm. I can reach out of the disaster and touch the calm. It’s so damn great I can’t even believe it.”

Virgil grew up in Pasadena as a legend in the field of high school fisticuffs. He played football as a linebacker, maintaining an image, Nick Hudson says, “as the baddest guy around.” Hudson says Virgil was “the baddest” both on and off the gridiron and “used to cold-cock guys and lay them out instantly.” Perhaps because most of his time was spent engaged in such activity, Virgil never learned how to read.

When he was 16 he moved to the beach and became fascinated by the Wedge, seeing in it a chance to develop fully the body-surfing skills he had learned elsewhere. On his first ride at the Wedge, Virgil took off backward in an over-the-falls move, a stratagem that was to endear him forever to veteran Wedge riders since they believed it to be the product of mental derangement. As he hurtled over the top, a backwash wave thundered from the shore, swept him around and upside down, turned him over a second time and slammed him feetfirst into the sand. If he had gone down headfirst, Virgil says now, he would have been killed. As it was, the top half of his leg pointed south, the bottom half pointed west, his knee was “destroyed” and he was in a cast for three months. “I figured then the Wedge was a virility deal,” he says. “At least it got me out of the Army. I had to keep going back.”

From that point on Virgil was considered Mr. Wipeout. Six years ago he broke his collarbone when a wave did thrust him headfirst into the sand. Two years later in one of his perfectly demented straight-off numbers, he smashed head on into a goon and/or turkey who was coming the other way. The goon’s jaw was caved in and broken in four places, while Virgil needed nine stitches to close the wound over his right eye.

“I don’t usually get mad,” says Virgil of the latter incident. “I mean, people see me up there and they usually get out of the way. People don’t swim under me. I don’t get uptight about others in the water. I don’t call them turkeys or goons. I call them people. They’re just out there doing their thing, like I am. Anybody who is out there at the Wedge has plenty of hair, let me tell you. I never head-hop, either. That’s kid stuff. But this time I was hot. I came out of the water prepared to duke this guy. I might have killed him, but he was hurt bad enough already.

“I don’t think I do anything unusual at the Wedge. I don’t free-fall all that much. I ride. It’s not a philosophy. It’s just my deal. I’m not erratic like they say, either, although sometimes I think my brain is slowly being destroyed. You ask a lot of questions, don’t you? You get me uptight, you know it? I feel like I’m taking the third degree from a cop. I was a freaked-out kid when I was younger, but that’s all in the past. I’m just trying to grow up and be a human being.”

Virgil’s carefree style at the Wedge appears to have emanated from some escapades in his younger days, such as the time at a party when a young lady approached him and asked where she might find an ashtray. “Why, my dear, right here,” said Virgil, taking her lighted cigarette and extinguishing it in his mouth. He also won a small bet one time by burning a hole in a dollar bill that was resting on the back of his hand. In the process he also burned two holes in his wrist.

“I couldn’t read anything at all for a long time,” Virgil admits. “Cherilee has taught me since then, and now I can read like a 10th-grader. Still, last year I was studying for an English exam at Orange Coast College when I suddenly figured out that it wouldn’t do any good to learn the answers if I couldn’t read the questions.

“The first time I went skiing my friends had to kidnap me and tell me they were ‘taking me to the river.’ I went to sleep in the back of a VW bus and woke up at the top of a mountain. I hated snow. They said, ‘There it is. Do it.’ I went down the mountain on my side, on my back, on my front, completely wiped out, destroyed. I absolutely tore up my knees. Ruined them. I loved it. I quit my job, left home and moved to Mammoth Mountain. At the ski lodge there one night I dove headfirst down a flight of stairs—just because. Because why? Well, there were these chicks all around. I thought it would be groovy. Was I drunk? I think I might have been.”

“You know you just wanted to impress those chicks,” said Cherilee.

“What?” said Virgil. “What? Impress what? These were radical chicks. What’s so hard? I used to dive downstairs all the time as a little kid. Also later.

“Every summer I’d work construction and dive off billboards to hurt myself or drop loads of lumber on myself to collect unemployment compensation so I could surf at the Wedge. Would I fake injuries? No, I wouldn’t fake them. I’d be damn injured. But I would recover. I guess I used to live a pretty reckless life. I think I might have been drunk most of the time. I fought a bull in Mexico and got knocked down, destroyed. I signed on with a rodeo and rode a Brahma bull for six seconds. I loved it. I worked on a tuna boat and got down in the nets to throw out the sharks that we had collected with the tuna. No, the sharks didn’t bite me. They were unconscious. I love tuna fish. Eat it all the time. I do what feels good. That’s the way I live my life. If it makes me feel good, whether it’s against the law or not, I do it. I’m not sure a lot of the things I’ve done weren’t pure lunacy.”

Cherilee says, “Mike also eats spiders and other insects and things.”

Virgil says, “Neither of us eats meat. It takes up too much energy. Besides, it isn’t good for you.”

About the Wedge, Virgil says, “I’ve always been determined to find a sport I could be the best in. I was always aggressive as a kid. You know, competitive, mean. Real mean. I bit off the cheek of a Negro in a six-against-30 gang fight. They had tire irons with them. But that was a long time ago. At the Wedge, there are a lot of individualists. Guys who do one thing better than anyone else. I take the biggest waves. I started out by being way up there at the top. I could see over the jetty and watch the boats in the harbor and the people on the beach. Then I’d go down. Way down. Fast. Was it bitchin’? I don’t say ‘bitchin’.’ That’s juvenile, a teen-age word. I don’t say any of that high school stuff. I say ‘groovy.’ It was groovy. The side-wave guys think free falling is just a hoax. But it’s a ride for me. I’m riding and doing spinners and everything. Once I got socked to the bottom and lost my false teeth. The whole beach was looking for them. Now I take my teeth out before I go in the water.

“I have dreams about the Wedge. It takes me places and I’m flying, flying. I’m relaxed and drifting. All my nerves and tensions leave me. I can’t go away from the Wedge and miss big sets without getting all upset and worried. There hasn’t been much surf lately, and Cherilee and I are going away for 10 days. I’m worried about that. The Wedge means that much to me.

“I dream sometimes I’ll die at the Wedge. It’s not a death wish or anything like Evel Knievel has. I think Knievel is a smart guy, definitely not crazy. He’s a good motorcycle jumper. I think I’d like to jump cycles someday. Evel has a friend who’s even more way out than him. His friend has a stunt where he is going to dive-bomb a plane, an old World War II plane, and aim it straight down to the ground. On the way down this guy is going to jump out—without a parachute now—and then a little later try to sky-dive back into the plane. I don’t think I’d want to try that. It’s groovy, all right, but the theory doesn’t seem right.”

Virgil was asked why the theory didn’t seem right.

“Well, he could get back in,” he said. “He could get back in, that’s for sure.”

But what’s the difference? he was asked. He crashes and he dies.

“That’s right,” said Mike Virgil. “That’s right.”

 

 

 *We do not own the rights to the article. It is republished here as an important piece of historical bodysurfing culture. 

Purple Blob Report: Summer 2014

Newport Point- Hurricane Simon
Newport Point- Hurricane Simon

Record breaking Pacific Tropical season, solid Southern Hemisphere energy, early start for the Northern Hemisphere, warm water, moderate winds, clear skies: the 2014 summer surf season was/is phenomenal. An all-timer, a comparison for epic summers of the future, literally one for the record books. Wave-riders are battered and rashed… but smiling in remembrance of summer and excitement for winter.

Velella velella
Velella velella

 Summer has the potential for weak storm tracks and minimal swell. Last summer was terrible. This summer was special. Purple blobs sent swell from various directions. Minimal marine layer allowed for plentiful sunny days.  Four thunderstorms graced San Diego in July and August. The water temperature moved into the 70’s in June and remained mostly trunkable well into October. The appearance of millions of velella velella- aka- ‘by-the-wind sailors’ on our beaches was seen as a positive omen by many water-people. Peter Hamann of San Diego Fishing Adventures says, “This summer was exceptional! The warm water allowed fish that normally stay deeper south to move north and provide us with amazing fishing.”

The 2014 Pacific Hurricane Season is one of the strongest since accurate measuring began in 1971. The Accumulated Cyclone Energy or ACE index, which measures overall storm energy, sees 2014 at 45% above the average as of press time. The season doesn’t officially end until Nov. 30th. SwellWatch forecaster, Nathan Cool remarks, “I’ve never seen so many hurricanes form in the NE Pacific in one year that took a northward trajectory, bringing not just swell to SoCal, but also torrential rain to inland areas.”  With 21 tropical storms, 15 hurricanes and 9 major hurricanes, 2014 compares favorably with the benchmark 1992 season.

Notice the "Record Warmest" off the coast of Central America where storms form and off Baja where storms enter the SoCal swell window.  Photo: NOAA
Notice the “Record Warmest” off the coast of Central America where storms form and off Baja where storms enter the SoCal swell window. Image: NOAA

Very warm water in the entire Eastern Pacific and low wind shear in the upper atmosphere fed a healthy storm track moving westward off the coast of Central America. The season started fast as Hurricane Amanda formed on May 24th. June and July combined for 5 tropical storms but nothing substantial. Then August exploded.

Hurricane Genevieve started in the East Pacific, then passed through all three North Pacific basins. She strengthened into a Category 4 hurricane south of Hawaii and was reclassified as Super Typhoon Genevieve after passing over the International Dateline. She then moved north and met her demise over cool water.  Hurricane Iselle followed, moving west and reaching Category 4 status. On Aug. 7th, she (now a tropical storm) was the strongest tropical cyclone to ever make landfall on the Big Island of Hawaii.  Next, Hurricane Julio strengthened into a Category 3 as he moved to the NE of Hawaii, delivering fun surf to places unaccustomed to such tropical swell. Hurricanes Karina and Lowell reached category 1 status as they moved into the California swell window. Lowell delivered a fun sized pulse of tropical swell that was a hint of things to come.

Aug. 7th- Four Hurricanes in the North Pacific  Photo: Global Wind Map
Aug. 7th- Four Hurricanes in the North Pacific. Image: Global Wind Map

Beginning on Aug. 10th, the National Hurricane Center monitored a tropical wave as it moved off the coast of Africa and across the Atlantic Ocean. Nine days later, a low pressure system crossed over Panama into the Pacific. Above average water temperatures and low wind shear allowed for rapid intensification and on Aug. 22nd, the NHC classified her Tropical Storm Thirteen-E.  Just six hours later, she became Marie. Moving into the SoCal swell window on a N-WNW track, she strengthened into a Category 5 hurricane with 160mph winds on Aug. 24th.  

 

On the evening of Tuesday the 26th, abnormally long, 18” tropical forerunners began to show at south facing beaches that could handle the SSE direction. First light, Big Wednesday, the 27th: 25ft. Wedge freight trains off the Jetty, perfect 12ft. Malibu reeling past the Pier, 15ft. Newport Point as good as California gets. The wind stayed down for the rest of the day and everyone near the coast was treated to a decadal spectacle of Ocean power and beauty.

 

Hurricane Odile approaching Baja. Photo NASA
Hurricane Odile approaching Baja. Photo NASA

Two weeks later, Hurricane Odile made landfall on the Baja Peninsula as the strongest storm ever to do so, with 125mph winds on Sep.15th. The widespread damage to Cabo San Lucas is a terrible reminder that these storms aren’t just fun swell producers but also extremely powerful and dangerous.  Hurricane Simon strengthened and took a favorable swell producing path during early October.  Tuesday the 7th saw another round of solid, clean hurricane swell lighting up Newport Point and Wedge. 

The Southern Hemisphere filled in the gaps nicely between hurricanes with consistent SW swell. There were no real standout southern hemi swells but it wasn’t dormant either. With a bit of patience, fun sets were always on their way… eventually.  Locally fun swell for southern exposures meant the surf rarely dropped below waist-high for weeks at a time. A glorious, fire-free Santa Ana wind event with pulsing SW swell lit up the California coast in early October. Even the North Pacific pitched in with a series of early season swells derived from typhoon remnants off the coast of Japan. 

Santa Ana dreams.
Santa Ana dreams.

Here are reviews from two Newport locals that have been in tune with summer surf for more than 50 years combined:

-Wedge Historian Mel Thoman says, “I’ve been recording “Wedge Calendars” since 1978 and that year remains #1 for size/shape/number of swells/conditions etc. 2014 made my Top 10 by the end of August and then vaulted into the Top 3 by October. It’s 2 or 3 for sure. The whole Crew charged hard with great vibes in and out of the water.”

Newport Summer 2014 Photo: Ron Romanosky
Newport Summer 2014 Photo: Ron Romanosky


-Long-time Wedge observer and pundit, Ron Romanosky, gave this review of 2014: ”This last summer’s swells rank among the top 5 in the last 3 or 4 decades.  Fantastic weather kept the waves rideable from first to last light far more than usual.  And let’s not forget the warm water!  By their performance in big waves, several of the young guns of Wedge bodysurfing now reside at the top of the list of Wedge’s top dogs. They/we know who they are.”

Purple Blob Review: Summer 2014
Consistency4/5
-No major Southern Hemis but plenty of swell around even between the epic tropical pulses.
Conditions5/5
-Sunny skies, warm water, minimal on-shore flow…yes please.
Intensity5/5
-One of the largest, most intense summer swells in California surf history and a series of other very solid swells. Not much else to ask for out of a summer season.
Overall- 5/5
-An all-time classic.

Winter 2014/2015 Forecast

To El Niño or not El Niño?  Eastern Pacific sea surface temperatures have fluctuated over the past few months and with them the predictions for El Niño. From very strong to moderate back to strong. My prediction: This is the beginning of a 3 year El Niño cycle. Starting moderate this year with low pressure dominating the Gulf of Alaska; bringing abundant NW winter swells to California and Hawaii. Along with reservoir-filling precipitation and feet of powder to all slopes. Then another strong tropical summer in 2015 and an epically strong El Niño winter next year. Pumping swell for years to come!
-KS

Sources
National Hurricane Center
Surfline- Hurricane Marie
Wikipedia- 2014 Pacific Hurricane Season 

Perspectives: Hurricane Marie at Wedge

Category 4 Hurricane Marie Photo: NASA
Category 4 Hurricane Marie           Photo: NASA

 

August 27, 2014.

IMG_0547Hurricane Marie.
Wedge.
These are perspectives from some of the bodysurfers
who swam out that day.

 

Matt Larson

IMG_0658Hurricane Marie is one of those rare occurrences where the hype, hope, expectation, and execution all came together. I watched the forecasts and was doubtful of the hype. The storm moved fast at 14-16kts and pretty westerly at that.  That being said, I still cleared my schedule from Tuesday on and hoped for the best. I got to the Wedge Tuesday around noon and saw fun 6-8′ surf, nothing epic but it was only Tuesday.

I swam out a little past noon on Tuesday hoping to get a few waves and loosen up in the water…after doing my own physical preparation regimen at home before hand.  The swell was clearly pleased with my arrival and immediately threw out a solid 10-12′ set and followed it with one in the 12-15′ range. Then another even bigger set broke as a “hurricane style freight train”. By 2pm Tuesday it was on and any doubts had been squashed! I rode solid hurricane Wedge with my oldest son, his buddy Jordon, and one other bodysurfer for 3 hours!

Tuesday night and early Wednesday morning became an exercise in–stay calm–conserve energy(after already surfing my ass off all day)–and be ready!  This became more challenging as my phone began to blow up with calls and texts from 10 different buddies and my brother, who would soon be boarding an airplane for Oregon for the week.  With my wife out of town for a couple days to attend a funeral the responsibility to care for our four children was my last “real life” hurdle to attend to before heading to the W for the day.  So armed with an entire loaf of pb & js, snacks, and gallons of water, we hit the road to Wedge…and so did the rest of Southern California!!

I used all the back alley tricks I know to reach 12th street by 9:30 but that’s where we came to a roaring halt! 11th St. 9:45, 10th 10:05… 9th at 10:30 and I was losing my mind! Calm was dead and gone! We need to be at Wedge now!  Finally we made it where a back alley opens up, the location of which I will keep a secret, and hauled ass all the way to C street through the back door, and re-entered the mayhem without delay with the help of crossing pedestrian. We scored a parking spot on Miramar directly in front of the Piani residence and were back on track and back in my realm.

The surf met a very lofty expectation. Wedge that day was one of the best solid size days in recent memory.  What really made it special was witnessing an entire generation of upcoming Wedge Crew riders earn their stripes. Also, its always great to ride solid, clean, and consistent Wedge with a core group of riders with which I have had the privilege to do so for the last 3+decades.  It was a rare day where everyone’s stoke tank was overflowing and the day passed without any significant conflict or injury–a rarity at Wedge unfortunately.

Hurricane Marie was definitely one for the ages and I look forward to meeting her sister 🙂

 

Chuck Olson

Chuck
Photo: Hank Haldeman

My first thought on big Wedge swells is… will it be clean? I don’t care how big it is, if it’s not rideable, I’m going back to bed! The crowd always brings another level of energy…something you feel immediately. Parting the crowd to get to the berm’s edge is always a trip…people’s first reaction seems to be one of annoyance when you ask them to get through. They think you’re going to cut in front of them for a front row seat to the mayhem. When they see you are about to enter the water you can almost feel the attitude change to, “Oh, it’s one of those crazy fools about to die.”

On days like the one we just went through, one of your first “warm-up” waves may be a 15’+ closeout peak…so warming up comes quickly so you have to be focused from the start. On these days, the real warming up takes place on the beach.

It was a great showing by all of the Crew! Nice to see the youngest guys maintaining the Wedge Crew bravado. I won’t rate this swell compared to others, you can’t. Too many factors which dictate a good vs. great swell to consider…but it was big and clean! A little bigger is always better! 😉

Sean Starky
For big Wedge swells, I usually sike myself out and tell myself it’s going to be a lot smaller than forecasted. On Aug. 27th, I watched the first set roll in and it was a hell of a lot bigger then I thought it was going to be. I tried to stay focused and study the conditions. I watched each set looking for the cleanest waves and the ones that were best shaped for bodysurfing.

When I finally swam out, I felt amazing. That’s the only thing that calms me on a big day. It forces me to slow everything down and focus on the surf. One of the reasons I love bodysurfing Wedge and other heavy spots is it forces me to block out all the bullshit of life and just focus on my surroundings.

After I took the first set on the head, I realized how much more playful big hurricanes swells are compared to big southern hemi swells like the one in 2009. I knew it was going to be a fun day for all the boys. I was really impressed with all the young Wedge riders, they all stepped up to the occasion and rode amazing…and Chris Kalima is a BEAST.

Teddy Bandaruk

Photo: Hank Haldeman
Photo: Hank Haldeman

When I first arrived at Wedge I was blown away by the amount of drones in the air. I was impressed by the size of the waves, but I was more impressed by how good the in-between ones were.  Some of the peaks were moving pretty fast so it took getting out in the water to feel out what was going on. When I hopped down the sand berm I was stoked to see all my boys swimming out with me at the same time.

The first wave I caught, I didn’t make because it broke on top of my head. The hold down wasn’t bad but on the inside there was a lot of water moving almost pulling you back to where the biggest part of the wave broke. That happened to me a few times which wasn’t a good time. I will remember all the boys charging and leaving the beach stoked on great, big Wedge. Great day for everyone.

Christopher Kalima

IMG_0754I arrived at 6:30am and couldn’t believe how clean it was. I wasn’t living in California when Linda hit in 1997, so I can’t compare the two swells, but it was easily the biggest surf at the Wedge I’ve ever witnessed. I was pumped. There were so many waves rolling through, I knew everyone would score. The outside was super crowded, so my plan was to sit inside and pick off the medium ones until the crowd thinned a bit. I ended up wearing most of the bigger sets, but found a lot of funs ones in between. Honestly, we so rarely see any waves of consequence in Southern California that getting caught inside actually got me really excited. I love that shit.

The Marie swell is the standard that all future hurricane swells will now be measured against in my book. Big, consistent, and the winds actually cooperated the entire day. I was psyched to see everyone charging, some in their 20s, others in their 50s, it was awesome to watch. Plus I found some new lineup markers that I filed away for future reference, I might have to write them down so I remember 20 years from now.

Thomas Van Melum

IMG_0634When I arrived, my first thought was, “What a circus!”  — if you’re going you may as well be dressed as a clown. I love the circus down there. I was happy to see A BUNCH of randys and news trucks around — to hear the grumpy old men talk about how it was in ’88, uncrowded — nervous because my feet were cut to shit from too much bodysurfing the week before on that TS Lowell swell. Hurricane stuff isn’t scary (Southern Hemis are a different story). But even then, I grew up here. I’ve spent a lot of time here. I don’t feel nervous or scared or anything when it gets big. As big spots go, this place is honestly pretty tame. Shit, there’s a fucking harbor on the other side, it can’t be that gnarly.

Preparing to swim out, you want to stay calm — so I walked right over to Sexy Jeff and jokingly said “I’m going to do a flip off this berm, then if I hurt my foot, I have an excuse to not go out.” I want to put on a good show — I want the crowd to get their monies worth. Once I saw the sets, I knew how epic the day was going to be. I decided right then and there I was going to stay out as long as I could, I may not get another chance at swell like this at The Wedge Street.

I took a mini freight on the head less than 10 minutes into my session…we all did. I dove 10+ feet down, and felt NOTHING. Could have been in a swimming pool for all I knew. Easy peazy japensezy. I always take the first wave that comes to me in the beginning of a session — helps get a feel for the day and set the tone. The first wave I caught was small and rippable — it solidified my feelings that today was THE DAY. This day has been a dream of mine.

The sequence that sticks out most in my mind was this: I took the first wave of a set. Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles arch nemesis, SHREDDER. I popped up all smiles. Then I saw Matty Larson taking off on the next wave. BALLS, that wave was epic. He was getting tossed around like a rag doll on this wave but still bodysurfing it. I could really see him doing everything in his power to ride, but I could also see that there was very little within his power he could do to ride. He made it to the end of that wave and got a GIANT barrel riding the foamball. That was a good 30 seconds.

Overall, I’ll remember how much fun it is to bodysurf with your friends — after all I’m in a different spot in my life, my daughter took her first steps the night before. While most people were watching videos of Wedge getting bigger and bigger, I was watching the video of my daughter’s first steps over and over again. Timing is a funny thing.

Tim Burnham
I had to ride my bike down from my house for this swell because the traffic was so bad from all the hype. I didn’t get down until 2 because it took me an extra 40 minutes to ride down after I got off work. When I first pulled up most the other Crew guys were done with what I hear was an epic session.

The waves were pretty damn big so I rushed to get my gear on. I talked Matt Larson into going out with me for another session and right when we were about to jump in a set of about 10 waves piled through. I’m in pretty bad shape from all the desk work I’ve been doing lately so at that point I was questioning my intelligence of going out haha. We ended up paddling out right after the set and got out in the lineup pretty quickly.

Once I got out there the current started going mad. It was a constant battle to stay in position for at least 45 minutes. I got one “ok” wave and then had to pull some kid onto the lifeguard boat that panicked. I ended up getting out pretty soon after that once I realized it wasn’t getting any better.

The thing I’ll remember most about this swell is Matt Larson going on a bomb freight train set that I thought there was no way he’d make down. He did. And he did it with a smile on his face. That guy is a beast. I was also pretty stoked on all the younger crew guys like Teddy Bandaruk that stepped it up this swell too. The future of the Crew is looking stronger than ever thanks to guys like him.

 

Special thanks to Hank Haldeman for the use of his epic photos from that day.
He can be found at:
Hank’s Bodysurfing Blog
Hank Haldeman on 500px

Our Hurricane Marie Experience

Night before
Night before

6:30pm The Night Before: EJ
Newport is buzzing. There are humans everywhere, on bike and foot and stopped in cars. Parents usher their children through the gates of the great coliseum. I walk the sidewalk and feel the ground tremble. After years of anticipation, the booming sound of my own daydream synces with my reality.

10:30pm The Night Before: EJ
Skye, Kyle and myself sip on beers sitting in the sticky Newport sand. I stare at breakers through the still darkness. Visions strobing through my mind, two-story waves swallowing bodysurfers, spitting them onto the rocky jetty. I have to remember. We’d trained our legs and lungs for this and we are ready. Sleep would not come easy. I shift from side to side in my sleeping bag on the floor. Thankful to have a roof and a bathroom for the morning (always an issue when travelling to Wedge), I focus on breathing and collecting my energy to let my body rest for the morning.

4:00am: KS
The swell rumbled me awake as I urban camped on 50th St. I groggily drive to the end of the Peninsula, scoring the best parking spot possible. A few dozen people pace the beach waiting for the show while a couple of jittery bodyboarders chat excitedly.

photo (1)
Stuck.

4:30am: KS
Sitting on the jetty rocks, I see the outline of large peaks bouncing off the jetty. The whole beach shakes. Then I’m blinded by headlights approaching from the street. I think, “That’s weird, the street ends up there.” The headlights get closer, “What the hell are they doing?” Rumbling over rocks, down the beach, the KTLA news van comes to an abrupt stop 5 ft. from where I’m sitting. The driver quickly puts it in reverse…and digs himself deeper into the sand…stuck.

5:00am: KS
Boards and hoards begin to arrive. More news trucks fill the end of the street. The beach quakes from what must be truly massive, but unseen waves.

5:15am: EJ
The coastline is still stifled in shadow, but the behind a few lines of obvious urban-campers, riders were beginning to park. Most of the early-risers were bouncing with excitement, but some looked downright intimidated. The swell had done its part and now it was up those of us who had waited to step into the water. I had plenty of distractions; the news truck stuck in the sand, the drone operators, the wide-eyed onlookers and the Purps beverage slingers. Stay focused. Watch the waves, study the waves, know the waves. The next few hours were a blink.

5:30am: KS
IMG_0172Civil twilight brings the first sign of light. Suddenly there are hundreds of people taking their spectator positions. Finally, the full scale of the Hurricane Marie swell is revealed and it is not a disappointment.

5:50am: KS
The first wave of the day is successfully ridden by a surfer. The flood gates open: bodyboarders and surfers rush the lineup.

IMG_04546:00am: KS
The lineup is already chaotic: drop-ins, ditched and broken boards. Glory rides and horrific wipeouts abound.

6:30am: KS
Pipeline charger, Jamie O’Brien, shows up with his normal shortboard and a soft-top surfboard. He attempts to paddle out on them simultaneously, but as he enters the water at Cylinders, a huge set stacks up. As the first wave approaches, he stands on the soft-top and tries to heave his shortboard over the top while he dives into the shallow water.  His boards wash back to the beach and he swims in after them…smiling.

7:00am: KS
O’Brien pulls off his board transfer stunt by paddling into the peak on the soft-top while holding his shortboard. Half way down the face, he puts the shortboard on the wave and jumps onto it. He finishes the ride by pulling into a mean, foamy barrel. The ever-increasing crowd cheers.

Bodysurfer Robin Mohr
Bodysurfer Robin Mohr

7:30am: KS
Eric Thulander catches the first bodysurf wave of the day, a solid right on the inside. While South African, Robin Mohr battles it out on the peak. Catching a couple of bombs dangerously surrounded by boards from the drop. I made the decision the week before that I was not swimming out. I was an excited spectator. But my boy EJ had been waiting for this. He’s been spending some time up here and he wanted it. He was anxious but ready.

9:40am (20mins until Black Ball): EJ
Much of the Crew is in the rocks and getting in their wetsuits. Teddy is literally bouncing. He’s half singing and half screaming, fake-boxing with Starky’s chest. I go the other direction. I hardly want to speak. My eyes avoid contact. Sometimes I’ll meet eyes with another guy in the same “zone.” We nod and reabsorb into our personal ether. Collect energy. We’ve all been looking at these freight train waves for hours, but Kyle and Skye find me. Kyle tells me that I don’t have to go out, but by his smirk I know he’s aware I decided to swim out months ago. My body suddenly felt the immensity of the situation. I’m racing on my bike across the peninsula, bound to find myself contemplating each of my exhilarating adventures in the squalor of public restrooms.

IMG_054910:00am: KS
Cheers to the Crew. They had to swim out. Regardless of their apprehensions and nerves. They had fought so hard for this. It was their time. Blackball. Newport Beach City Resolution 95-116. At 9:50, they gathered on the berm. 9:55 a massive set rumbled down the Jetty. At 10:01, after the set cleared, Chuck Olson led the charge. The Boys straight charged. There was only about 15 of them max at any given time. But very few waves went unridden. There was a group of guys sitting on the inside catching well-overhead runners all the away across to the sand. A group sat in the middle, riding perfect peaks into cavernous barrels. And a few guys lurked out the back, furiously kicking into, and successfully riding the biggest 20fters. It was a spectacle. A celebration of the Blackball.  A tribute to the history and culture of bodysurfing.

IMG_4411

10:25am: EJ

Teddy Photo: Hank Haldeman
Teddy           Photo: Hank Haldeman

From the berm, I’ve never seen the look like this, but at this point I need to get in the water. The gallery is 7-8 people deep. I’m wading through bodies, each with eyes glued to the horizon. Eager to get in, but I have to watch the jetty. Whitewater on the jetty means sit your ass back down. All clear? Go. My nerves are twisted and tied, but as soon as my wetsuit fills with the Pacific energy nervousness is a distant memory. Swim. Letting the wash do the work I’m in the lineup unscathed and the “lineup” is scattered. There are heads bobbing outside, no doubt Kalima, Larson, JT and Teddy. There are a handful of guys doing laps on the “inside,” catching perfect 10-12ft cornerbowls to the sand. Their artful rides are jaw dropping. I had decided to sit on the inside of the peak towards Brutals. The truly perfect hurricane peaks were inconsistent at best, but I saw a couple of smaller “sets” swinging wide to the north and that’s where I’d hunt.

IMG_434611:30am: KS
I’m trying to find a spot to spectate and photograph. The thick crowd is serious about holding their spots. Ooohs, ahhs and gasps resound with every wave ridden. A giant set breaks out the back and a bodysurfer charges down the face, much to the delight of the crowd. Unknowingly, the crowd continues to spectate the action in the water as the first wave of the set rushes unimpeded up the beach. Slamming into and over the tall berm. Everyone nearby is soaked. Including the guy holding the $3,000 in sandy, dripping wet camera gear. Lot’s of action all around!

 11:45am: EJ
I’ve caught a few to the inside. Feeling comfortable. Everyone left in the water is grinning ear to ear. Look at that crowd. I just noticed thousands of people staring back at me from the sand. Surreal. There would be chargers among them. They may even remember back to that day in 2014 when they watched a handful of bodysurfers swim the thin line between chaos and control. Now they’re whistling. Oh shit, they’re whistling at the jetty. I whip around to see Godzilla rising out the back. Scurry and scrape. Not going to make it. I’m arcing my neck straight up in a way that I haven’t since childhood. Experiencing the elephant as the mouse and I’m swimming deep. Long strokes, deep. Each breath has been practiced and the collision of water is epic. Popping out of the churning Ocean and then I’m deep again. On the third I catch a blur of a body air dropping into the pocket of the beast. He stuck it, whoever it was. Bodies rolling in the high seas.

1:30pm: EJ
After a succession of waves, each bigger and better, I am saying my goodbyes. I’m solemnly aware of the specialness in this rotation of the Earth. 14 years since the last, who knows how long til the next. A slow sniff of the moment and I float on my back to look up. My private reflection ended and I start tracking what looks to be a swinging inside peak. It’s big. Thomas, who has shared a number of waves with guys already calls out, “you got it? Looks like a makeable closeout.” Makeable closeout.

 “I’m here.”

 It pitches. I’m locked. I’m the blur. In the cave. Out the caaavvve… back in. It blurs, I’m pitched, then expanded in all directions. The big bang and then the sand. Love.

Images, Thoughts and Reflections – Wedge, July 6 & 7, 2014 – Ron Romanosky

Roman03-023
Photo by Woody Woodworth

Ron Romanosky rode Wedge for decades as a knee boarder and bodysurfer and has long been known as a strong supporter of Wedge bodysurfing.  He has photographed and documented Wedge in its entirety, its standout bodysurfers and its unique ongoing story for years, long before the www and social media discovered and exploited the place.  From its inception the Surfers Journal has published Ron’s photos of Wedge and of surfing in general.   The Journal also published three Wedge-related pieces written by him, the last of which was Our Wedge, Our Way.   His photos have appeared in print media around the world.   He continues to shape kneeboards under the logo ROMANOSKY and has websites for kneeboards and photography:  www.romanoskykneeboards.com and www.romanoskyphoto.com Note:  A battle with late stage throat cancer necessitating weeks of chemo and radiation treatments in 2009 led to Ron’s decision to leave the wedge lineup.

Picture 022This is the Wedge California and I knew years before the internet and long before every attention-craving social media post would immediately be known to the world.  The image, from a 35mm slide and one of a several shot sequence, was captured at mid-day in the summer of 1990 or 1991.  No, the transparency was not scanned to facilitate photo-shop to remove anyone from the image or to add anything.  Minutes prior to this wave – one of a 3 or 4 wave set, several bodysurfing friends and I had been in the water.  Scattered about on the beach was a small number of beach goers more interested in tanning.  The word mellow adequately describes that day.  The only camera there was mine.  There were many days such as this one – of a pristine Wedge, etched into my memory banks… and, for both substantiation and history, archived in my film collections.


First called ‘The Hook’ Wedge (it’s ‘The Wedge’ to the TV and news media and the great masses directed there) has hooked riders and fans for decades.  And since the advent of the internet (and consequently, due to it) this once bodysurfing-only spot during big south swells has become ground zero for riders of every persuasion and trend who would challenge it, test themselves and hope to “star”.  Unfortunately, Wedge’s fame and notoriety have not escaped the usual commercial and promotional interests (specifically, skim and surfboard companies and many photographers) who covet the break for its earning potential.  Wedge bodysurfing would likely become a memory if these interests had their way.  Fortunately the Newport Beach City Council has not yet allowed Wedge to become California board surfing’s first whorehouse… nor, it is hoped by bodysurfers and Balboa Peninsula homeowners alike, will it ever. 

1
This set peak is reserved for the bodysurfer who has positioned himself in the right spot, as small and specific as it always seems to be on the big ones, and who possesses the rare abilities to catch and grace it with skills which are the end result of years of dedication and experience. And let us not forget the parts played by aptitude, passion, stamina and talent in the makeup of an outstanding bodysurfer. And the end result when such an individual glides across a good wave? Nothing other than the exhibition of an art form.

 

Inviting shape here.  With the majority of this swell’s set waves being quite the opposite it was disappointing that no one took it.   With big souths being as rare as rain in SoCal one could even imagine that one rider might have snaked another on this one.  But as wrong as that offence is, it happens... and it was not uncommon 2-3 years ago.  The water temperature on both days was as nice as the absence of wetsuits should indicate.
Inviting shape here. With the majority of this swell’s set waves being quite the opposite it was disappointing that no one took it. With big souths being as rare as rain in SoCal one could even imagine that one rider might have snaked another on this one. But as wrong as that offence is, it happens… and it was not uncommon 2-3 years ago. The water temperature on both days was as nice as the absence of wetsuits should indicate.

Teddy Bandaruk on a good one.  The water color is real, not enhanced.
Teddy Bandaruk on a good one. The water color is real, not enhanced.

 

The swell, although not an all-timer, had an inordinate amount of push as the tide filled in on the 6th.  The great amount of water constantly refilling the depression behind the berm resulted in the largest pond and “river” many long-time Wedge people have ever witnessed.  The rapids had small standing waves that were even rideable on boogies.  Everyone, save those who got drenched, lost belongings or got their cameras ruined, enjoyed this face of Wedge.
The swell, although not an all-timer, had an inordinate amount of push as the tide filled in on the 6th. The great amount of water constantly refilling the depression behind the berm resulted in the largest pond and “river” many long-time Wedge people have ever witnessed. The rapids had small standing waves that were even rideable on boogies. Everyone, save those who got drenched, lost belongings or got their cameras ruined, enjoyed this face of Wedge.

Parker Varner “riding” the sand bar of sand bars.
Parker Varner “riding” the sand bar of sand bars.

This shot gives a good idea of the swell’s push.  The little kids were loving it – hard to imagine their experiences from this day not being etched into their memories for all time.
This shot gives a good idea of the swell’s push. The little kids were loving it – hard to imagine their experiences from this day not being etched into their memories for all time.

Sean Starky where he likes being.
Sean Starky where he likes being.

Not a big wave, but a rare right.  The lighting and white water dramatize the image some.  Rider ?
Not a big wave, but a rare right. The lighting and white water dramatize the image some. Rider ?

Long time bodysurfers Rick Piani and Craig Plitt standing next to a stretching Sean Starky.   These three represent 60 or more years of Wedge experience.
Long time bodysurfers Rick Piani and Craig Plitt standing next to a stretching Sean Starky. These three represent 60 or more years of Wedge experience.

The un-rideable?  No way.  If there’s a camera on the beach or in the water there’s always some willing bloke for some rogueish Wedge thing, damn the consequences (unless they’re suffered, eh?).
The un-rideable? No way. If there’s a camera on the beach or in the water there’s always some willing bloke for some rogueish Wedge thing, damn the consequences (unless they’re suffered, eh?).

Thick... nasty... hollow... and rideable.  Trick with one like this is catching it where it’s catchable.  An added pleasure: not witnessing the clutter of water snappers usually populating and polluting the wave’s fore’water’.  Catching the crowd in this shot was intentional.
Thick… nasty… hollow… and rideable. Trick with one like this is catching it where it’s catchable. An added pleasure: not witnessing the clutter of water snappers usually populating and polluting the wave’s fore’water’. Catching the crowd in this shot was intentional.

Thomas VanMelum in the middle of what was a smooth spinner.  To really appreciate a good spinner it must be seen taking place or in a video.  A still photo will not do one justice.
Thomas VanMelum in the middle of what was a smooth spinner. To really appreciate a good spinner it must be seen taking place or in a video. A still photo will not do one justice.

The height of this wave breaking in the harbor entrance usually indicates an epic swell seen perhaps once every 3 or 4 years.   Accordingly the set waves at Wedge should have exceeded 30 feet in face height (the largest this swell may have been twenty).  Note: Photographing such a wave from the Wedge jetty’s rocks, without the people, remains a quest.
The height of this wave breaking in the harbor entrance usually indicates an epic swell seen perhaps once every 3 or 4 years. Accordingly the set waves at Wedge should have exceeded 30 feet in face height (the largest this swell may have been twenty). Note: Photographing such a wave from the Wedge jetty’s rocks, without the people, remains a quest.

Yes - SUPers are becoming part of the on-going, ever-changing Wedge story.  Thank the Heavens for the Blackball!
Yes – SUPers are becoming part of the on-going, ever-changing Wedge story. Thank the Heavens for the Blackball!

No caption necessary, though paramedics are occasionally summoned after such beauties.
No caption necessary, though paramedics are occasionally summoned after such beauties.

Not an enviable position, eh?  Bud Browne would have paid to have caught this wipeout.  So Bud, this one’s for you.
Not an enviable position, eh? Bud Browne would have paid to have caught this wipeout. So Bud, this one’s for you.

From the street at sunset 7/6/14: a somewhat familiar scene of emergency and police vehicles congregating at Wedge as the red flag on the guard stand is barely affected by a gentle breeze.
From the street at sunset 7/6/14: a somewhat familiar scene of emergency and police vehicles congregating at Wedge as the red flag on the guard stand is barely affected by a gentle breeze.

-Ron Romonosky