Ode to Summer

Summer Solstice
The Sun’s energy reaches north to the Tropic of Cancer.
Long days, warmer water: shed the neoprene shackles!
Pack a bag, grab a bike, surf til 9.
Long beach days, sandy feet, sandy everything.
Season of skin.
Bikinis and womper speedos.
Tans and burns.
Move beyond the gray and gloom.

South swells, birthed off Antarctic ice,
Make their long, lumbering trek across the equator.
Gracing our shores with their steep angled, inconsistent energy.
Hopeful for intense tropical lows spinning off Baja,
moving north into our swell window.

The 5 is jammed- beach parking is nonexistent.
30 guys pitched with the lip together at the local womp.
The South Pacific is inactive.

No worries.
High Sierra passes are open and alpine meadows bloom.
Worship in the Granite Cathedral.
Find a dark sky…observe the heart of the Milky Way.
Stunning clouds of galactic star stuff.IMG_8794


Yes, the North Pacific winter provides better energy.
But a pure New Zealand south swell,
sans wetsuit,
is something to cherish.
Lines stack up, lefts reel along the coast,
unloading in the warm summer air.


Published by

Swell Lines Magazine

Bodysurfing yarns woven 'tween crest & trough