Ode to Winter

Sure the days are short and morning’s cold.
But the Exhilaration!

Stripping off warm layers…
To enter a wet, clammy wetsuit…
in freezing offshore wind…
At dawn.

Big, purple blobs flood NPAC models.
The Harvest Buoy spikes…its coming.
Butterfly stomach excitement.
Impending glory rides…
…and poundings.

The North Pacific Ocean.
The Polar Jet Stream.
Massive, spinning tempests.
Spraying swell from-
Hawaii to Alaska to California.

Entire weeks of head-high+ surf.
Consistent, pumping sets.
Lungs expand.
Surfed-out, thinning crowds.
80° weekends in January.
The thrill of enormous storm surf.
Delightful Winter!

Less traffic, more parking.
Dynamic weather.
Glorious, desperate rain.
Maybe, possibly, perhaps …
the run-off bacteria strengthens our immune system?

Smile! Its time for winter poundings!

Published by

Swell Lines Magazine

Bodysurfing yarns woven 'tween crest & trough