48 Inches of Glory

48 inches, 4 feet, 122 centimeters. That’s it. That’s all I desire. I don’t need Chicama or Pavones or Raglan. I don’t need Indonesian perfection or Peahi size.  

Just one or two or three sections of hollow, plunging wave action. 

This is a tribute to those 48 inches.

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Swell Lines Magazine

Bodysurfing yarns woven 'tween crest & trough