Swell Lines Mag

Volume 2 Issue 11

a. Astro Surf b. ‘Umi and Pai’ea-Kaha Nalu c. Bodysurf Skills Required d. From Body, With Love e. Spoiled
Astro-Surf

On July 20, 1969, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin touched the Eagle down in the Sea of Tranquility on the lunar surface, forever changing the path of humanity. Eventually, humans are sure to extend footprints further into the solar system and out into the galaxy. But as we leave Earth, exploring and starting colonies on…
‘Umi and Pai’ea- Kaha Nalu

Reprinted from John R.K. Clark’s book, Hawaiian Surfing: Traditions From the Past. Perhaps the most famous description of bodysurfing is found in the story of ‘Umi and Pai’ea, two chiefs from the island of Hawai’i who were both skillful bodysurfers. When ‘Umi as a young chief visited Laupāhoehoe, Pai’ea challenged him to a heihei, or…
Bodysurf Skills Required

Bodysurfing is an art unto itself, no board required. However, there was a time when the world’s pioneers of surf considered bodysurfing skills to be a prerequisite. When they paddled out to explore towering Makaha or bombing Waimea, there was no safety patrol to ski wipeouts to the sand. These guys had no choice, but…
Spoiled

El Niño is real. As predicted, a series of solid swells are producing substantial surf throughout the North Pacific. The jet stream is firmly established in a southerly position and a seemingly nonstop train of WestNorthWest swells are marching across the NPAC region. Are you tired yet? A couple months ago, I wrote a piece called Swell…
From Body, with love.

Dear you, What is wrong with you? You were up late and now we’re combing the coast before the sun has even hinted at rising. Rest is hard to come by. I’m strugglin and this tiny cup of coffee ain’t cuttin it. Sure it’s warm, but we all know what’s next. That damn wetsuit. The…