
a. 1991 Pipeline Bodysurfing Championship Final b. Fin Quiver: Eric Joyce c. Cold, Wet, Sandy Wetsuits at Dawn. d. Bodysurfing Baptismal e. Visions of the Month

1991 Pipeline Bodysurfing Championship Finals from Swell Lines Mag on Vimeo. Final Results: 1st Place Mike Stewart 2nd Place Ben Severson 3rd Place Mark Cunningham 4th Place Chris Robinson 5th Place Doug Allard 6th Place Don King More info: Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic

I have a slight obsession, a love of old objects, aged fins or crusty cameras. Imagine the swells 20, 40, or 60 years ago these floppy duffs of rubber pushed wave-riding pioneers into. Some fins have even seen the murky waters of battle. If they could speak their story, they would have such a tale…

Dawn patrol. 37 degrees at 5:30am. Wind chill a few degrees colder. Coffee. Numerous layers of clothing. Out the door with towel, fins and…damn it! Forgot to rinse and dry the wetsuit after last evening’s session. The wetsuit is sandy and it’s wet and very cold Pull up to the spot, too dark to see, but can feel and…

As with many of my brethren, I was a late convert. Adults are cursed with responsibility and an accelerated experience of time. We are afforded precious few opportunities to slow down the tick of the clock with novel moments, so when I felt bodysurfing for the first time I was awakened anew. Like any good…

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