Ode to the Tube


The Water. The Wind. Bathymetry. Collaborating. Creating a sublime natural wonder.
Energy pumped from low pressure across the Ocean approaches the coast.
From deep water, the energy quickly shoals…shallower…shallower…
Focused, fluid energy forced up, up and out. Bending water.
Barreling waves.
Blessed by the experience. A fortune for the Soul.
The feel the view the smell the sound the taste…Sensory explosions.
Cosmic energy pumped straight to the brain.
Pick a peak. Buy the ticket, take the ride.
Swim hard, feel the dynamics, tap in and let go.
An instant of sublime stillness, weightless, gliding into the pocket…
Enclosed in water but not wet.
The sun illuminates everything. Synapses overload.
The air clears and the mind melts.
Enjoy the view. Psychedelic forms of color and light.
Snap. Snap. Snap. Brain camera firing off.
Trillions of bursting bubbles echo inside.
Time liquefies and Space warps.
Breathe deep. Inhale the pure barrel air. It’ll be needed…
Swiftly transforming peaceful to violent.
Chaotic serenity. Hectic tranquility.

Tubes-shacks-caves-pits…Greenrooms/blue/brown and white rooms.
No two the same…all thrilling.
Swimming, chin deep in the energy. Mesmerizing, spinning water.
Round waves exhaling…spitting spray. Exploding rainbows.
370,000 miles of coast on Earth. Only a fraction have the right stuff to bend water into dreams.

Astonishing from every angle: underneath, on the head, down the beach, on paper, on screen.
But nothing on Earth compares to the experience of being inside a barreling wave.
Driven so fast and so smoothly by the Sea.
Begging hyperbole: Nirvana…enlighteningly blissful.
The most supreme pleasure.
Begin to imagine them everywhere: In rocks, under trees, in a puddle.
We become enchanted. Doodling, studying, watching, chasing, dreaming…
Consumed by the tube.
The Water. The Wind. Blessed by the experience.


Published by

Swell Lines Magazine

Bodysurfing yarns woven 'tween crest & trough

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