Volume 4 Issue 5

  • a. Swim to THE Spot b. Glassy: Neal Miyake c. Terminal Velocity: How big is too big? d. Ode to Winter e. In This Place

  • Successful wave-riding is very much about being in the right place at the right time. Sure, you might get lucky and have a wave come directly to you, but most of the time its important to be on the move, finding the sweet spot. The ability to read and understand the Ocean is vital. How…

  • Ten years ago I got assigned to write about a surf spot. I’m actually still working on the article, but along the way I’ve had the pleasure to connect with a different subculture of waveriders: bodysurfers! They are a “chop suey” mix of personalities, ethnicities, and skillsets, many with styles that reflect the surf spots…

  • We have all watched massive Jaws, in awe of the surfers who claw their way into cavernous walls of water. Whenever I see surfers pushing the limits of board surfing I am pulled back into the limits of our own persuasion. What waves are bodysurfable?   When we are considering what waves are makeable we…

  • Sure the days are short and morning’s cold. But the Exhilaration! Stripping off warm layers… To enter a wet, clammy wetsuit… in freezing offshore wind… At dawn. Big, purple blobs flood NPAC models. The Harvest Buoy spikes…its coming. Butterfly stomach excitement. Impending glory rides… …and poundings. Wintertime! The North Pacific Ocean. The Polar Jet Stream.…

  • Sam punches the clock at eight. Shortly thereafter he crawls through a web of memos in passive-aggressive tones. Upcoming deadlines dot his plain desktop calendar, so he fills another cup of joe. Tuesday’s powerpoint and quarterly review roll in and out of memory. Sam’s glassed over eyes would draw attention, but all are focused on…

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