Volume 4 Issue 5

  • a. Ohana: The Fords b. The Ride After the Ride c. The Joy of Bodysurfing Big Waves d. Mythology of the Orange Cap e. Visions of the Month

  • Bill Lucking was a health fanatic. When all the other lawyers from his firm would go to lunch and drink martinis he would grab his green Churchills and bodysurf the waves of South Jetty. Bill may have found his way to the Ocean to stay healthy, but over time, his enthusiasm would draw all sorts…

  • In bodysurfing, even the best rides sometimes end in violent underwater poundings. After locking into the pocket of a hollow wave, you watch the next few sections stand up and majestically start to bend. You enjoy the vision and take a deep breath of barrel air…sucked up the face and thrown over the falls. The…

  • It starts with a buoy, bouncing and sending waves of information to shore. When it lands on my computer screen my body feels it. It’s just an echo. The memory of hundreds of rides shaking my nerves awake. I experience the same excitement that I feel when the horizon goes dark. This feeling infects each…

  • I asked a guy who obviously knew his way around NorCal lineups… “Ever see any other bodysurfers around?” “Yeah, I’ve seen a couple. Always the orange swim cap. Or is it pink? Well, whatever color it is, she shows up when it’s biggest and heaviest and most perfect…she swims and plays when the local tough…

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